Palawan in 5 Days: Island Hopping & Beaches

The Philippines' Last Frontier

Palawan has been voted the best island in the world by multiple travel publications, and for once the hype is justified. The limestone karst scenery of Bacuit Bay, the bioluminescent waters off Port Barton, and the UNESCO-listed underground river in Puerto Princesa form a trifecta of natural spectacles that no other island in Southeast Asia can match.

This five-day itinerary splits time between El Nido (3 nights), Port Barton (1 night), and Puerto Princesa (1 night), travelling south to north or vice versa depending on your flight schedule. Budget approximately USD 70-100 per day excluding accommodation.

Day 1: Arrive in El Nido & Nacpan Beach

Most travellers fly into Puerto Princesa and take a van to El Nido (5-6 hours, PHP 600-800 per person via shared minivan). Alternatively, AirSWIFT operates direct flights from Manila to El Nido's Lio Airport, which cuts the journey to 75 minutes but costs more.

Once settled, hire a tricycle (PHP 500 round trip including waiting time) to Nacpan Beach, a pristine four-kilometre stretch of golden sand about 45 minutes north of El Nido town. The southern end is quieter. Swim, bodysurf, and grab a grilled fish lunch at one of the beachfront shacks (PHP 200-350 for a whole grilled fish with rice and vegetables).

Return to town for sunset drinks at Bella Vita on the waterfront, where the limestone cliffs of Bacuit Bay turn amber as the sun drops. Dinner at Trattoria Altrove, a surprisingly excellent Italian-Filipino restaurant on Serena Street. Their wood-fired pizza and fresh pasta are made by an actual Italian expat. A meal with beer runs about PHP 600-800.

Day 2: El Nido Tour A -- Big & Small Lagoon

This is the day that puts Palawan on the bucket list. Tour A is the most popular island-hopping tour and covers four stops: Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Shimizu Island, and Secret Lagoon. Standard boat tours cost PHP 1,200-1,400 per person including lunch and the environmental fee.

The Big Lagoon is a cathedral of limestone cliffs enclosing emerald water so clear you can see fish from the boat. Rent a kayak (PHP 200) to paddle deeper into the lagoon where the walls narrow and the water turns jade.

Small Lagoon requires swimming through a rock opening at low tide -- a thrilling moment. Inside, the enclosed pool is mirror-still and impossibly blue.

Shimizu Island is the snorkelling stop. The coral is recovering well and you will likely see parrotfish, clownfish, and juvenile reef sharks. Secret Lagoon involves a short swim through a hole in the rock face into a hidden pool surrounded by towering karst.

Back in town, dinner at Happiness Beach Bar on the waterfront. Fresh seafood, cold San Miguel, and sand between your toes.

Day 3: El Nido Tour C -- Matinloc Shrine & Hidden Beach

Tour C is less crowded than Tour A and arguably more beautiful. Stops include Matinloc Shrine, a clifftop chapel with surreal water views; Secret Beach, accessed by swimming through a narrow keyhole in the limestone; and Hidden Beach, a perfect cove of white sand visible only from the water.

The highlight is the Helicopter Island stop (named for its shape from a distance), where the snorkelling over shallow reef gardens is some of the best in Bacuit Bay. Tour C costs PHP 1,400-1,600 per person.

Spend the evening at Sava Beach Bar for live acoustic music and grilled seafood. El Nido's nightlife is mellow -- fairy lights, rum buckets, and conversations with other travellers.

Day 4: Port Barton -- A Quieter Palawan

Take a morning van from El Nido to Port Barton (3-4 hours, PHP 500). This small fishing village has no ATMs, limited Wi-Fi, and some of the most peaceful beaches on the island. That is exactly the point.

Afternoon, join a Port Barton island-hopping tour (PHP 800-1,000 per person). Typical stops include Exotic Island, a tiny sandbar surrounded by coral; Starfish Island, where orange starfish dot the shallows; and German Island, which has the best snorkelling of the three. The reef here is in excellent condition -- expect turtles, lionfish, and schools of jacks.

Evening, eat at Gieleen's Garden Restaurant, a family-run place known for its kare-kare (oxtail peanut stew) and incredibly fresh kinilaw (Filipino ceviche). Port Barton gets dark early -- bring a headlamp for the walk back to your guesthouse.

Day 5: Puerto Princesa Underground River

Take an early van from Port Barton to Puerto Princesa (3 hours, PHP 400). Drop your bags at your hotel and head straight to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most hotels can arrange the day trip including transport and boat entry (PHP 1,500-2,000 per person total).

The underground river stretches 8.2 kilometres through a limestone cave system, making it one of the longest navigable underground rivers in the world. The paddle boat tour covers 1.5 kilometres past cathedral-sized chambers, stalactites, and resident colonies of swiftlets and bats. It is genuinely awe-inspiring.

Return to Puerto Princesa by late afternoon. For a farewell dinner, head to Ka Lui Restaurant on Rizal Avenue, widely considered the best restaurant in the city. The seafood set menu (PHP 500-700 per person) includes soup, grilled fish, kinilaw, vegetable dishes, and dessert. Reservations are essential -- they are closed on Sundays.

Practical Notes

Palawan's roads are improving but still rough in places. Motion sickness medication is worth carrying for the van journeys. Cash is king outside El Nido -- Port Barton has no banks or ATMs, so withdraw enough pesos in El Nido or Puerto Princesa to cover your stay. The best months are December to April when seas are calm and rainfall is low; June to October brings rougher water that can cancel island-hopping tours.